circled pearls with ring-like formations around them are the least expensive.
When you need to cut down on the price of a black pearl, shape is a good category to compromise on. In fact, baroque and circled pearls often make more interesting jewelry pieces than round pearls do.
SURFACE PERFECTION: Flaws can decrease the price of black pearls considerably, which is an advantage for consumers. A black pearl can often be mounted in a way that will hide imperfections when worn.This means if you select pearl(s) with partially flawless surfaces, you can have a clean-looking one for a lower price. Remember that blemishes on single pearls tend to be more obvious than on those in strands. It's normal for pearl strands to have some flaws.
SIZE: Naturally the bigger the black pearl the more expensive it is. Black pearls generally range in size from about 9 to 18 mm with their average size tending to be between 9 and 11.5 mm. Some baroque black pearls may reach 25 to 30 mm in length. Size has a great impact on price. A 1 mm increase in the size of medium-quality pearls can raise their price 100 to 200%.
At the retail level black pearls tend to be described and priced according to millimeter size. Weight may be used as an additional means of identifying them. This is the opposite of round diamonds where the price is based on the weight, but measurements may be given to help distinguish them from other diamonds of the same weight.
On the wholesale level, however, large lots of black pearls are sold according to their weight, which is measured in momme (1 momme = 3.75 grams = 18.75 carats). The pearls are graded into various categories, and each category is assigned a per-momme price.
NACRE THICKNESS: It should be at least 1 mm (of the radius). The thicker the nacre the more valuable the pearl. As you are shopping, you may encounter salespeople who claim that all black or white pearls from the South Seas have thick nacre, and that nacre thickness need not be a consideration. Many people who specialize in producing or studying black pearls would disagree.
Dr. Jean-Paul Lintilhac, installer and developer of two black pearl farms in Tahiti, is one example. In his book, Black Pearls of Tahiti, he states that jewelers in Tahiti are worried about the thinness of the nacre of some of the pearls offered to them for sale. He goes on to say that certain pearl farmers are in such a hurry to recover their investment that they harvest their pearls prematurely and as a result the nacre is very thin. Then he writes:
"Formerly a big pearl meant a good thickness of nacre, but with the supergrafts used today, size is no guarantee. If you are buying a big expensive pearl, you have the right to ask for an x-ray of it which will enable you to see and measure the thickness of the layers of nacre surrounding the nucleus. One millimeter of nacre is a minimum for a good pearl. "
Tahiti Pearls, a major black pearl company, also tells consumers in their book The Magic of the Black Pearl, that nacre thickness is a criteria used to judge black pearls. They indicate a 1 mm to 1.5 mm nacre thickness as an appropriate range for black pearls.