•  Look for luster. This was the first quality factor that Lisa focused her attention on because it's the most important one. To understand why, just compare dull milky pearls to some highly lustrous ones. Chapter 4 gives you tips on judging luster.

• When judging prices, try to compare pearls of the same type, shape, size, color, luster and blemish

quality. All of these factors affect the cost of pearls. Due to the complexity of pearl pricing, it' easier for consumers to compare pearls that are alike or at least similar.

•  Look at a variety of qualities so you'll have a basis for comparison.

•  Remember that there is no standardized system for grading pearls. As a consequence, grades such as "A" have no meaning other than what the seller assigns to them. In some cases, an "A" grade may be the lowest quality a store stocks. The lack of standardization does not mean there's no point in grading pearls. It's just an added reason why you need to know how to judge pearl quality yourself.

•  Be willing to compromise. Both Charlene and Lisa had to settle for something other than what they might have preferred in order to stay within their budget. Charlene got freshwater instead of saltwater pearls. Lisa's pearl was badly flawed on one side. Even people with unlimited budgets have to compromise sometimes on the size, shape, color or quality due to lack of availability. A pearl doesn't have to be perfect for you to enjoy it.

•  Beware of sales ads that seem too good to be true. The advertised pearls might be of unacceptable quality, especially in terms of nacre thickness. Or they might be stolen or misrepresented. Jewelers are in business to make money, not to lose it.

•  If possible, establish a relationship with a jeweler you can trust and who looks after your interests. He can help you find buys you wouldn't find on your own.

•  Place the pearls against your hand and answer the following questions. A negative answer suggests the pearls are a poor choice.
     a.  Do the pearls have bright, sharp light reflections?
     b.  Do the pearls have overtone colors?
     c.  Does the color of the pearls look good next to your skin?

The preceding guidelines in essence suggest that you learn how to evaluate pearls. But why is it so important for you to do this? Why should jewelers educate you about pearl quality? Is it just to help you compare prices?

No. Learning more about pearls will help you make a choice you can enjoy for a lifetime and will help you appreciate the unique qualities of the pearls you choose. How can you appreciate something you don't understand?

As you learn to compare luster differences among pearls, you will see how pearl brilliance differs from that of other gems. The brilliance of faceted gems normally appears best in their face­up position. No matter how you hold or wear good pearls, they glow. Even away from light they glow. And this glow has an intensity and depth unmatched by any other shiny round object.

As you learn to compare the color nuances of pearls, you'll see that good pearls are not just white. They have a variety of underlying colors which add to their beauty. And they come in a wide spectrum of body colors. Some people say that pearls make them look washed out. These people change their mind when they see black pearls and when they try on lighter pearls that enhance their body coloring.

As you are introduced to the different pearl shapes, you'll see how pearls offer creative